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Hard on the heels of yesterday’s Garnacha tasting hosted by the EU Fab 6 and the UK Sommelier Association – today saw the latter organisation pairing with the Italian wine group ZONIN1821. This time the event was an all-day walk-around tasting of 35 producers, accompanied by two masterclasses. The second of these classes, like yesterday’s event, focussed on food and wine matching.

This is a contentious subject, scorned as nonsense by some but taken very seriously by others. The latter position is well expounded by the now classic book Taste Buds and Molecules: The Art and Science of Food, Wine and Flavor by François Chartier. The more cautious commentators include Jancis Robinson MW; see her 2012 article Molecular Sommelry – really!

To many, including myself, matching remains a very interesting discussion, and a source of continuing experimentation, trial, error and pleasure. It is in this vein that Federica Zanghirella, VP of the UK Sommelier Association, hosted this masterclass – food and wine matching is one of Federica’s specialisms. Helping her were Denni Di Rosa, Global Estates Ambassador for ZONIN1821, and Christopher Burr MW, whose long and varied career includes heading up wine at Christies Auction House.

It was, perhaps, unfortunate that most of us had partaken of the lasagna, cannelloni and tiramisù lunch, for every place in the classroom was laid with six (substantial) tasting portions of more delicious food, in front of seven wines. All we had to do was decide our favourite pairings and see how well we scored at the end against the experts’ ‘right’ pairing.

Now, while I agree that some foods and some wines have a certain affinity, I had to bite my lip at hearing the word right. I once happened to be passing Wright Brothers seafood restaurant near Borough Market and noticed a diner at a pavement table enjoying a bottle of Malbec with his oysters. Yes, enjoying. Let’s not get too expert about this subject.

But, no question, the Oltrenero Brut Nature and the Grillo did match well with the butternut squash and sage arancino; the rosé complemented (and complimented) the pistachio and cranberry chicken ballotine; and, of course, the Vin Santo del Chianti hit it off with the Stilton mousse and poached pear. All the while, Federica explained why these matches work: flavours, acidity vs fat, sweetness, textures, weight, similarities and contrasts.

It was only a pity that there wasn’t enough time by half to try all 42 possible combinations, let alone linger and savour the dozens of flavours in front of us. But as Simon Staples once said “I quite like my job.” (The Firm, BBC 2, 2009).

Many thanks to Haberdashers Hall, ZONIN1821, the UK Sommelier Association, Federico and some unsung but heavenly Italian chef and his or her team for an informative, fun and delicious masterclass.

The wines and dishes in decent pairings:

Pan-fried tiger prawns with crunchy Thai-style salad, sweet chili and toasted peanuts

            Ca’ Bolani, Pinot Blanco Opimio

Butternut squash and sage arancino with burrata emulsion

            Oltrenero Brut Nature, or

            Principi di Butera, Grillo Diamanti

Pistachio and cranberry chicken ballotine, pickled wild mushrooms and mustard emulsion

            Masseria Altemura, Zinzula Rosato (from negroamaro)

Slow-cooked roast beef with horseradish crème fraîche and micro watercress

            Castello di Albola, Chianti Classico

Braised ox cheek bourguignon with mashed potatoes, carrots and pancetta

            Masseria Altemura, Sasseo Primitivo di Manduria

Cropwell Bishop Stilton mousse with poached pear, port gel and toasted brioche

            Castello di Albola, Vin Santo del Chianti

Federica Zanghirella