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London is the wine capital of the world, it is sometimes said, precisely because Britain has always had to bring wine in from overseas, and we are open-minded as from where. One benefit of this is the many fascinating masterclasses that are organised, often led by visiting winemakers. Though the standard is invariably high, masterclasses at the Institute of Masters of Wine in Battersea are special. World class speakers are a given, but the audience is equally formidable, being, in some proportion, Masters of Wine, MW students and potential MW students, topped up with mere winosauri like myself. Subjects are focussed, latecomers are rare, the mood attentive.

Earlier this week, the subject Syrah and Soils was addressed by three famous winemakers who know each other well but who probably don’t find themselves together in the same room very often. Andrea Mullineux is from South Africa, Johann Henschke from South Australia and Philippe Guigal from southern France. The event was admirably organised and moderated by Singapore-based Annette Scarfe MW as part of one of Annette’s frequent and equally well organised world tours.

Syrah is my favourite red wine grape. Its aromas, flavours and textures appeal to me at a personal, subjective, level. Were I to try to rationalise this, I would say that Syrah makes wines that are rich but rarely chocolatey as Malbec or Merlot tend to be; it is a complex chameleon that sits on the red-fruit, black fruit seesaw; with naturally good balance and great ageing potential.

Each of the winemakers had brought with them two pairs of wines from different soils, each pair spanning five years of age. Andrea set the scene with the proposition that Syrah is very sensitive to terroir, for sure, but rarely demonstrated in a such a controlled and revealing comparison as over the next three hours.

Mullineux was one of the first Syrahs I tasted (and then bought) when I discovered wine about fifteen years ago. However, I soon became wary of Australian Shiraz, which can be too much of a good thing for me and often with intrusive eucalyptus taint – criticisms that could not be levelled at Johann’s wines. Third to speak was Philippe Guigal from Ampuis in the Côte-Rôtie, a shoe-in for Syrah’s birthplace and, for me, the destination. Two vintages of La Mouline versus two of Ex Voto? This is the sort of tasting that grandmothers are traded for.

So what did we learn? First, that five years’ difference in age was not as revealing a comparison as it might be for, say, young Riesling vs. five years on. Syrah of this quality ages very slowly. And the effect of the ageing was compounded by vintage variation; two adjacent years might have focussed better on this, a ten year gap better to show ageing.

But the main objective, the comparison of soils, was illuminating. Very much simplified, the wines from granite were more fragrant and accessible; the schist wines darker, brooding, dei ex machina still waiting in the wings.

This was a wonderful tasting, a rare insight into Syrah, three masterclasses from three masters. Each spoke for forty minutes, their material well organised and finishing on cue. Those present bonded around a common purpose, the audience rapt, the samples pondered, the questions considered. A well run masterclass such as this is a beguiling combination of learning and pleasure – shared pleasure, and the pleasure of sharing.  

Afterwards, I slipped off to a favourite, familiar little restaurant to sit alone, to make notes, and to reflect.

Many thanks to the IMW, Annette and the three speakers.

The wines

Mullineux Jakkalsfontein 2021 and 2016 (decomposed granite)

Mullineux Roundstone 2021 and 2016 (schist)

Henschke The Wheelwright 2021 and 2016 (granite eroded to sandy loam, over clay)

Henschke Mount Edelstone 2021 and 2016 (marble eroded to sandy loam, over clay)

Guigal La Mouline, Côte-Rôtie 2020 and 2015 (schist+)

Guigal Ex Voto, Hermitage 2020 and 2015 (granite+)